A Symbol of Style and Status

In the early days of Colonial America, headwear served as both a fashion statement and a practical necessity. Among the most iconic styles was the tricorn hat, known for its distinctive three-cornered shape. First popularized in Europe during the late 17th century, it quickly made its way across the Atlantic. In the colonies, the tricorn hat came to represent authority, refinement, and social status.

Worn by gentlemen, merchants, and military officers, the tricorn was a mark of sophistication. Its shape was not only stylish but also practical—it allowed rainwater to run off its brim while maintaining a sharp, confident silhouette. Wealthier men often wore tricorns made of fine felt or beaver fur, trimmed with gold braid or feathers, while tradespeople and soldiers opted for simpler versions crafted from wool.

The tricorn became so deeply associated with the era that it remains one of the most recognizable symbols of Colonial American fashion, often seen in portraits, reenactments, and historical films today.

The Shift Toward Refinement

As the 18th century drew to a close, Colonial America experienced dramatic cultural and political change. The American Revolution not only redefined a nation but also reshaped its fashion identity. Out of this transformation emerged a new symbol of refinement—the top hat.

Introduced in Europe and quickly embraced by the colonies, the top hat reflected a move toward modernity. Unlike the elaborate folds of the tricorn, the top hat was tall, sleek, and cylindrical, with a flat brim that emphasized elegance and structure. This design mirrored the growing desire for order, professionalism, and social polish in post-Revolutionary America.

By the early 19th century, the top hat had become essential attire for politicians, merchants, and the rising middle class. It represented progress, success, and self-confidence—values at the heart of a young nation eager to establish its identity on the world stage.

Headwear Beyond the Elite

Not all Colonial Americans had access to fine materials or ornate designs. For working-class men and women, headwear served a functional purpose—to provide protection from the elements and identify one’s trade or role in society.

Farmers, for instance, often wore wide-brimmed straw hats that shielded them from the sun during long days in the fields. Artisans and sailors preferred durable, low-crowned hats made from wool or leather. These hats were not decorative but indispensable.

Women, too, used hats and head coverings to express modesty, femininity, and practicality. The mob cap, made from cotton or linen and tied with a ribbon, became a staple for housewives, maids, and working women. It kept hair clean and out of the way during chores, while also adhering to the modest fashion standards of the time.

For those living on the frontier, practicality ruled. The coonskin cap, famously worn by pioneers like Davy Crockett, symbolized rugged independence and resourcefulness. Each of these headwear choices reflected the realities of daily colonial life far more than fashion trends.

Function Meets Fashion

While many hats in Colonial America were designed for specific purposes, even practical headwear carried subtle hints of style and identity. A well-shaped brim or decorative ribbon could distinguish a person’s social standing or occupation.

Sailors, for example, often wore waterproof hats made of oiled cloth known as sou'westers, which protected them from harsh sea spray. These were practical, yet they became emblematic of maritime life. Similarly, fur trappers and explorers adopted weatherproof leather caps that combined comfort and endurance—traits admired in a society that valued hard work and resilience.

Even within modest means, people found ways to personalize their hats. A bit of lace, a feather, or a dyed ribbon could transform a simple cap into something unique. This human impulse to decorate and distinguish oneself is one of the enduring themes of fashion throughout history.

The Cultural Meaning of Hats

In Colonial America, hats were more than accessories—they were powerful indicators of social identity, personal values, and community belonging. A well-crafted hat could speak volumes about a person’s wealth, trade, or political allegiance.

During the Revolution, for instance, certain hat styles even carried symbolic meaning. Patriots often wore Liberty caps or cockades in the colors of the Continental Army to show their loyalty to independence. Meanwhile, Loyalists maintained the formal European fashions that reflected their connection to Britain.

Hats thus became a kind of wearable language—a way for individuals to express both unity and distinction in an era of profound social change.

Lady Astor Top Hat ~ Riding Hat designed by Darna ~
I have a few ready-made top hats in stock; however, most of my top hats are made to order according to the desires of the customer.

Women and the Top Hat: From Riding Habit to Modern Fashion

While the top hat was initially associated with men, Colonial and post-colonial women quickly adapted it as part of their riding attire. Wearing a top hat while horseback riding became a practical and stylish choice, offering sun protection, a stable fit, and a polished silhouette. By the 19th century, it had evolved into a symbol of elegance and confidence for female equestrians, and this tradition carried forward into modern times. Even today, women’s top hats remain a cherished element of equestrian fashion, formal events, and historical reenactments, bridging centuries of style and utility.

Echoes in Modern Design

Today’s hat designers continue to draw inspiration from the rich legacy of Colonial America. The crisp lines of the top hat, the romantic curves of the tricorn, and the soft simplicity of the mob cap each tell a story that still resonates in modern millinery.

I’ve personally found immense joy in re-imagining these historical forms for contemporary wear. One of my favorite designs is a custom tricorn created for a young man who wore it to his wedding in Venice, Italy. The hat combined traditional 18th-century craftsmanship with a modern sensibility—proof that history and style are timeless partners.

These creative revivals remind us that every hat, whether centuries old or newly made, carries within it the spirit of the people who first shaped it.

Conclusion: A Legacy Woven in Fabric and Felt

From the dignified tricorn to the refined top hat, the evolution of Colonial American head-wear mirrors the nation’s growth—from rugged beginnings to cultivated refinement. Each hat tells a story of ingenuity, adaptability, and artistry.

By studying these historical designs, we gain insight into the values, ambitions, and challenges of early American society. And for today’s designers, they remain a wellspring of creativity—proof that fashion is not merely decoration but a living dialogue between past and present.

Hat fashion, after all, is history worn on the head.

I’ve had a lot of fun designing hats using the Colonial American backdrop as an inspiration. Here’s a sample of my tricorn intended for a young man who wore it to his wedding in Venice, Italy.

"From Tricorn to Top Hat: Exploring the Evolution of Head-wear in Colonial America"